The villagers of Pakudui entertain us with a customary
interpretation pf the Garuda creature.
The Garuda is a long-standing Indonesian national symbol,
however the public’s interpretation of its physical shape continues to develop.
Artists are still creating variations on this mythic creature that are dramatic
and which capture the imagination.
The village of Pakudui, which lies about 10 km north of Ubud
in Bali, remains under the Garuda spell. Some of the villagers here are
professional artisans and make Garuda statues for a living. Indeed, Pakudui is
more commonly known as Desa Garuda (Garuda VIllage). The customers who shop
here are varied and range from tourists to famous politicians,
The atmosphere was cool and tall trees shaded the road. Far
away from the major tourists spots, Pakudui still radiates traditional Balinese
village life.
Little kiosks line both side of the road and all sell the
same thing: statues of the Garuda eagle. Sizes are vary and there are different
colours, however the artisans’ creativity is deeply rooted in Hindu mythology.
These little kiosks don’t just sell statues though but also function as art
workshops. Before making a purchase, customers can watch the production process
and come to understand the work involved in the creation of these statues.
One of the artisans met there was Nyoman Reta. His workshop
was not particularly spacious and had a tin roof and a cement floor. A few of
his small eagles were lined up neatly on a wooden shelf awaiting buyers.
Stripped to the waist, he hammered away at wood from nangka (jackfruit) ree,
the main material used in the making of these statues.
This now 50-year-old craftsman started learning how to carce
when he was only ten. Everything he knows he learnt from his father, who was
also a sculptor. The expertise needed to carve a Garuda that is rich in detail
does indeed require intensive training, once a person has mastered this craft
though, he or she passes on these skills to his or her children.
According to Nyoman, the production process of a statue
depends heavily on the size and the complexity of its detail. Small ones of
less than a metre in height require three week work, while larger statues can
take up to three months.
The history of Garuda statue production in Pakudui is
unclear, however it seems that this business emerged naturally. Nyoman Reta
explained that the village’s ancestors originally made a range of different
statues, including dragons and lions, however a busniness grew, the Garuda came
to dominate as they were more commonly requested by customers.
